Furniture painting for beginners is an exciting and rewarding craft that can help you transform your furniture and give it a unique and personalized look. With the right supplies and a few simple techniques, you can easily learn how to paint furniture like a professional. The process involves cleaning the piece of furniture, filling in any damage, and then applying primer, paint, and sealer. The type of paint and finish you choose will depend on the type of furniture, the look you want to achieve, and the amount of time and effort you want to put into the project. With a little practice and patience, you can create beautiful pieces that are perfect for your home.

What paint to paint furniture?

1. Professionals recommend choosing coatings that are suitable specifically for furniture. If you take a composition designed, for example, for the ceiling or walls, and paint a chair with it, the coating may not work the way you would like it to, and in addition will be short-lived. As a last resort, you can take a universal paint, but it is better to clarify in advance on the manufacturer’s website or with the salesperson in the store whether it will be suitable for your project.
2. A safe and modern choice is water-based coatings. They dry quickly and do not emit harmful substances, which is important when we are dealing with items used in residential areas.
3. Water-based acrylic paint is one of the most common choices. However, this coating is not recommended for lacquered surfaces, LDPE products or items already painted with some other types of paint (such as glue-based).
4. If you need to decide what paint to paint chipboard furniture or lacquered furniture, it is better to take eco-paint options: chalk, mineral, milk paint. They are safe and, if you follow the recommendations for use, adhere well to various surfaces, up to and including plastic, metal and glass.
5. Oil paint is used less and less nowadays. They take a long time to dry and release strong smelling and not very useful compounds. When working at home, it can be hard to put it on straight. But if you’re not afraid of these peculiarities, but you need a strong and durable coating, this option is fine.
6. Latex paint is a pretty popular option right now. It is good with a variety of textures and colors. But, although it dries quite quickly, the surface after drying does not become so hard to call this type of coating durable and wear-resistant. Simply put, for a bench on which you daily stand with your feet, it is better not to take this option, but for a decorative shelf it is quite suitable.
7. Finally, let’s talk about the finish. This can be varnish or wax. Varnish gives a stronger, more wear-resistant coating, so it is better suited for items that you use often and intensively. That said, you can choose a varnish with different textures, such as matte or glossy. Wax looks and behaves more softly, and it also doesn’t tolerate high temperatures. It is not suitable, for example, for the seat of a chair or a tabletop, but it is quite possible to use it for a dresser or shelf.

How to Paint Furniture: Sequence of Steps

1. Needed for painting

Prepare:

• paint of one or more colors (in the store, focus not only on the color, but also on the type of paint – take into account the tips above, plus if possible, consult with a salesman, explaining to him the essence of your idea and plans for its implementation);
• degreaser (alcohol or mineral spirits);
• putty and spatula, if necessary;
• primer;
• if you need a craquelure effect – an appropriate coating;
• finishing coat (varnish or wax);
• rollers, brushes, sponge, paint tray;
• sandpaper of medium grit and fine grit;
• masking tape, if you need to protect any parts;
• gloves and clothes that you can’t be bothered to stain with paint;
• a protective mask;
• newspapers or polyethylene to cover the floor;
• several lint-free cloth rags (microfiber rags work well).

2. Preparing the furniture

First, examine the piece of furniture selected for painting. You will need to keep it clean by wiping it with a cloth soaked in a detergent solution. Then wipe the object with a clean, damp cloth and dry it thoroughly.

Then fill in the cracks and chips with a special filler. Wait until it dries and sand the surface with an emery cloth, first coarser, then finer grit.

If you decide how to paint furniture without removing the varnish, it is worth sanding the entire surface: this way the coating will lay better and will hold longer.

Then dedust the surface: to remove sanded off particles from the previous coating, go over it properly with a microfiber cloth.

Then degrease. What can be used to degrease a furniture surface before painting? Alcohol or mineral spirits will work. Apply the liquid to a rag and wipe the surface, then wait until it dries. Remember to wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated area.

3. Priming

The next step is priming. Only go to this step after the preparatory step described above! Coat the surface with primer, wait until it is completely dry and then sand it with a fine sandpaper. After a good dedusting, that is, remove the sanded particles of coating with a microfiber cloth. For best results, apply a second coat of primer, dry, sand and dust again.

4. Paint

Finally, let’s move on to painting. You can use a brush, paint roller, spray paint. Try to put the paint evenly, without drips. It is better to put a thinner layer and then add more than the other way around. Depending on how you want to get the result, you may need to put 1-3 layers of paint. Be sure to dry each coat well. After each coat has dried, you can sand the surface with a fine sandpaper and dust it: this gives a more even, homogeneous finish.

5. Finish Coating

Apply the topcoat after the paint has dried. You can use a matte or high gloss lacquer of your choice. The lacquer is usually applied with a brush or a soft cloth or foam pad. You can also use varnish in a spray. Usually 1-2 coats of varnish is enough. Allow the coating to dry well between coats.

If you are using wax, rub it vigorously with a soft cloth into the surface. Then go over the surface with a clean cloth to remove any excess.

Ideally, after applying the finish coat, the object should not be used for 2-3 days to be less likely to damage the coating.

Painting furniture with your own hands: 5 main rules for a great result

1. Do not skip the sanding stage

There are quite a few master classes and guides, assuring that this step is optional, there are paints, labels which say that when working with them to sand the surface is not necessary, but the practice-professionals unanimously assert: for good results – necessarily sand! If you are repainting a large object or furniture that needs to remove old varnish or paint, you may need a sander. But, if you are patient and have enough gloves and a protective mask (so as not to breathe the dust), you can also sand the wood properly with an ordinary sandpaper, by hand. For objects of complex and rounded shape this method is even more preferable. First, remove the old coating and smooth out the irregularities with a coarse sandpaper (take care not to overdo it by removing too much, especially for chipboard furniture). Then – go over the entire surface with a fine sandpaper.

2. Dust properly

If the dust from the sandpaper stays on the wood, the paint will lay unevenly, and later may well start to come off in pieces. An aged or craquelure effect is better to achieve with special techniques. When you want a good, even finish, after sanding, wipe the surface properly with a soft, lint-free cloth (lint can “litter” the finish).

3. Primer 

Be sure to prime the surface before you paint. Primer not only helps the paint adhere better to the surface, making the finish stronger and more durable. It impregnates the wood, protecting it from destructive external influences (moisture, sun) and fills in small cracks and irregularities. Prim wood by following the instructions on the package of your chosen product. General advice: Try to prime even the hard-to-reach areas with primer (use a brush for this) and let the primer dry well.

4. Better a few thin coats than one thick coat.

To get a good-looking and long-lasting finish, don’t try to cover the entire surface with a thick coat of paint at one time. It’s not likely to be perfectly flat, and you’re more likely to get runners that will negate any effort to prepare the surface beforehand. It is better to put a thin layer of paint, let it dry properly, then estimate the result. At this stage, by the way, it is easy to get rid of minor flaws – those same runs or flecks stuck to the paint (sand these places on the dried paint with sandpaper). If, in your opinion, the coverage is not dense enough, add a second coat. After it dries, check the result again, and so on. However, too many thin layers of paint may also not look very nice – usually three is enough.

5. Use a finishing coat

When choosing a paint, ask for advice about the type of finish that will go best with it (this is also worth doing when buying a primer, by the way). When the painted object is perfectly dry, give it a protective finish coat, and you’ll enjoy your work much longer.

Polishing antique and vintage furniture can be a rewarding experience, especially when done correctly. Wax polishing is one of the best ways to bring out the beauty of your old furniture and make it look as good as new. Wax polish is an effective way of protecting the furniture from scratches and wear, while also giving it a glossy and beautiful finish. It is important to wax polish antique and vintage furniture the right way, as improper methods can lead to damage and discoloration. This article will provide you with a step-by-step guide on the professional way to wax polish antique and vintage furniture. With the right technique and a little bit of patience, you can make your old furniture look like new again.

Polishing With Beeswax

This natural remedy does not change the color of the wood, consists of turpentine and beeswax, two natural oily substances, after polishing which the surface of the wood looks smooth and shiny. For the preparation you will need 1/4 cup of beeswax, which should be melted by stirring with a wooden spoon. Once the wax has dissolved, you need to take it off the fire and slowly add to a container 1/4 cup turpentine, after cooling pour into a sealed container, where it is recommended to store the product. If desired, you can add essential oils to the polishing paste, to neutralize the strong smell of turpentine. Apply a small amount of the product to a rag and rub it into the furniture or floor.

How Do I Clean Off The Old Wax Polish On My Furniture?

You can remove furniture old wax polish with solvents known to everyone, such as turpentine, denatured alcohol solution or ammonia. To remove the old wax polish, carefully rub one of these remedies into the surface of the furniture using thin metal wool. By the way, this method of removing varnish is the easiest and most popular among people.

You can also remove old wax polish from furniture with the help of ordinary acetone. Soak a prepared rag in this substance, spread it on the lacquered surface and cover it with polyethylene, so that the acetone does not evaporate. After half an hour, remove the softened varnish with a spatula. The effectiveness of this method of removing old wax polish depends entirely on the quality of the varnish.

On the shelves of specialized stores you can find special solvents and rinsers, designed to remove old wax polish from various surfaces. Use them properly, following the supplied instructions, because if the remover penetrates deep enough into the micropores of the wood, the subsequent application of varnish on this surface will be virtually impossible. Use a small brush to apply the flush to grooves, grooves, hollows, and other hard-to-reach areas of furniture.

A great helper for removing old wax polish from furniture is a sander. With it, you can get rid of old varnish in minutes. First, use a coarse sanding pad, and then a fine sanding pad. Compact sanders are available that are connected to a vacuum cleaner. When they are used, the dust produced by sanding does not fly in different directions.

Some people prefer to remove old wax polish from furniture with the help of special construction hair dryers. This method is not entirely successful, because removing lacquer with such a hair dryer, for example, from solid veneer, can lead to peeling of the veneer.

Is It OK To Use Aerosol Spray Polishes On My Antique Furniture?

No, using polishes to treat antique furniture is not allowed under any circumstances. If you think about it yourself, you will realize that it is quite logical. In the “young age” of antiques no chemicals for the protection of tables, chairs, etc. have not yet been heard of. Then they used ordinary wet rags, and they made sure that the latter were soft. You should do the same. In this case, the antique furniture will serve you for as long as possible.

7 Reasons Not To Use Spray Polish On Your Furniture

When it comes to polishing furniture, many people turn to spray polish as an easy and convenient option. However, there are several reasons why you should avoid using spray polish on your furniture.

1. It’s difficult to control.

When you spray polish onto furniture, it’s difficult to control where the polish goes. This can lead to an uneven finish and overspray on surrounding surfaces.

2. It can build up.

Because spray polish is so difficult to control, it can easily build up on surfaces. Over time, this build-up can make furniture look dull and dirty.

3. It’s messy.

Spray polish is notoriously messy. It’s easy to accidentally get polish on your clothing or carpet. And, if you’re not careful, you can end up with a sticky mess.

4. It’s wasteful.

Because spray polish is so difficult to control, a lot of it ends up going to waste. Every time you use spray polish, you’re essentially throwing money away.

5. It’s harmful to the environment.

Most spray polishes contain harmful chemicals that can damage the environment. When these chemicals are released into the air, they can cause respiratory problems and other health issues.

6. It’s flammable.

Many spray polishes contain flammable chemicals. If these polishes are used near an open flame, they can easily catch fire.

7. It’s bad for your furniture.

Spray polish can actually damage your furniture. The chemicals in spray polish can interact with the finish on your furniture, causing it to become dull and discolored.

So, next time you’re tempted to reach for the spray polish, think twice. There are much better and safer ways to polish your furniture.

Why You Shouldn’t Use Oil-based Polishes On Your Wood Furniture

Using low-quality oil

It is worth considering that even quite high-quality universal oil can be less effective (most likely it will be) than specialized formulations. It is worth choosing products designed to solve a specific problem.

The oil is not stirred before use

Why do you need to stir the oil? To lift the pigments that have settled to the bottom. If this is not done, the color of the oil will be darker somewhere and lighter somewhere on different areas of the wood. This is especially risky when using dye oil.

Using oil from different batches without mixing

The composition of oil in different batches may vary slightly, including the concentration of dye pigments. If oil from different batches is not mixed, the surface will be painted unevenly.

Excessive application of oil

A small excess of oil during application not only does not hurt, but is even recommended. But sometimes too much oil is applied: so it takes a long time to dry, especially at the seams.

More often than not, this mistake is due to the fact that:

• working with oil as with paints: the product is not “stretched” on the surface;
• apply the composition with low-quality brushes or foam sponges;
• use more oil to get a saturated tone;
• do not polish when applying oil on hard wood (beech, maple, larch) or when using oil with a high dry residue.

Why Are Homemade Furniture Polishes So Bad?

Furniture polish is designed to protect wood surfaces and keep them looking shiny and new. However, many store-bought polishes contain harsh chemicals that can damage your furniture over time.

Homemade furniture polishes are often made with natural ingredients like olive oil or beeswax. While these may be better for your furniture, they can still damage it if not used correctly.

Olive oil, for example, can leave behind a greasy residue that attracts dirt and dust. Beeswax can make your furniture look cloudy and can be difficult to remove.

When using any type of polish on your furniture, it’s important to test it in an inconspicuous area first. This will help you determine if the polish is compatible with your furniture’s finish.

It’s also important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. This will help you avoid damaging your furniture and voiding any warranties.

If you’re looking for a natural furniture polish, there are a few recipes you can try. Just be sure to test them in a small area first and to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use.

Interiors tell stories, keep memories, unite eras and can look balanced, even if you add the most unexpected ingredients to the “recipe”.

Vintage things, remembering our grandmothers’ childhood or those found in the treasuries of antique stores and flea markets, can harmoniously coexist with the hottest trends, collections of modern designers and practical mass-market. Here’s how to make them work together.

Styling

One way to twin retro with modern is to make vintage items the main protagonists of the interior, and all the rest of the furniture and decorations pick up under them. Nowadays it is an easy task. To assemble an interior in the style of a certain era, it is not necessary to hunt for rare items at auctions, or to arrange excavations in attics.

Contemporary designers are actively nostalgic for bygone eras, regularly reviving them in their collections and projects: glamorous art deco from the roaring ’20s, practical mid-senchuried modern on thin lacquered legs, relaxed hippie era and bold Memphis from the ’80s are all relevant and relatively easy to access now.

Characteristic styles from bygone decades are constantly traveling through time and appearing on the trend list. This year the most fashionable trend is the ’70s: terrazzo texture, rounded furniture, corduroy upholstery, macramé and other signs of the hippie decade are massively present in designer collections. Authentic vintage of the period will feel good in such company.

Striving for one hundred percent conformity to a particular era is not necessary, after all, we are not talking about an art production in a movie, but about a residential interior. 

Contrast

A mix of styles and eras in one interior has every right to look contrasting. And the sharper and more noticeable the contrast, the better. The most relevant technique at the moment: take a simple, solid interior base and expressive accents. By solid base we mean a neutral finish and modern interior minimalism, and by expressive accents – accentuated non-residential furniture and accessories. 

If you want to beat the vintage sofa, add contrasts in the form of cushions with modern prints. Put modern tableware in a vintage sideboard, or misuse it at all – for example, to store hats. Surround an antique homestead wooden table with modern chairs – all to make it clear that you’re only playing with retro.

As always, the key is the right proportions. The abundance of vintage can squeeze the air out of the space, turning it into an antique shop. Use retro elements as condiments.

Making furniture shapes from different eras come together is a challenge; it’s easier with accessories. The more minimalist the interior, the more interesting a vintage object will look in it. In an abode of glass and concrete perfectly fit “beaten by time” wooden stool. On the shelves of minimalist kitchens with smooth fronts without handles vintage utensils will take root. Faded carpet will lie beautifully on the stone floor or porcelain tiles, it is desirable that the furniture and other accessories in the room looked emphasized modern, then the contrast will look like a deliberate decision, and the carpet will not seem like a random relic of bygone times. 

The principle is simple: the cozy vintage contrasts with the modern technological. In such a contrast, retro things seem even more “alive”.

Especially brave ones can hang a nostalgic carpet on the wall. But it is better not to pull this trick in a classic interior among the massive wooden furniture – it may look too Soviet. 

Recycling

Sometimes we want to nestle a vintage piece in the interior not only because of its aesthetic or practical qualities, but simply because it is memorable. Some of these items can no longer be used for their intended purpose, but you can always give them a new life. 

Your grandfather’s vintage suitcases can become a bedside table.A three-liter jar, in which grandma rolled cucumbers, can be used as a colorful vase. Do not be afraid to fit such a seemingly unsightly accessory into a modern interior, the main thing is to pick him the right neighbors.

Old boards that have already lived the life of a rustic fence or the wall of a private house can be used as screens for radiators, decorative panels or bed headboard cladding. Window trim will turn into a frame, Dad’s bicycle into a creative coat rack. And such things as a samovar, kerosene lamp, typewriter or gramophone and did not need to look for alternative uses, they can be seen purely as decorative objects. 

Vintage and modern things can look like forced neighbors, to turn their cohabitation into a thoughtful interior, you need a concept.

Retro motifs in the interior – at the peak of popularity. You, too, can bring them into your surroundings, and it’s not too difficult to do it with your own hands.

1. Painting with a worn-out effect

The most common way to paint your furniture to create a vintage effect is to first apply a layer of contrasting paint, and after it dries, rub it with a candle (the most common one) on the ledges, corners and other places where you want to see scuffs and the effect of the peeling from time. Then cover the item in the base color, allow to dry and go over the areas rubbed with a candle with a spatula or fine sandpaper. The top layer of paint is easy to remove, exposing the contrasting “substrate.

A tip: if your furniture is dark and you decided to repaint it in a light color (or vice versa: the furniture is light and the new planned look is dark), you can omit applying a contrasting “undercoat”.

2. Wax tinting.

To give furniture and accessories an aged look, you can also use waxes. The effect is especially noticeable if the surface has ledges and recesses, or if it is rather textured in itself. Depending on the desired effect, you may want to see a more pronounced effect, but choose a more contrasting one. 

For the tinting process, you can combine several waxes for a more interesting result.

3. Stencils

Using a stencil (ready-made or homemade), you can apply a vintage inscription or a distinctive pattern to furniture or an accessory to give the item a retro look.

4. Dry Brush Method

Another method for paint lovers is dry-brush painting. Pick a color that contrasts with the base color – and with an almost dry brush, go over the projections and edges with light tapping motions, simulating scuffs and scratches. 

5. Adding Filler Paint

By adding filler to the paint (often quartz is used), you can create a peeling effect in places. Apply the filler paint and after it has dried, gently scrape away the excess with a spatula. However, if you like textured protrusions on the surface of the object, you can not knock them down, it also looks original.

6. Physical Damage

The method is especially good for antiquing wooden furniture, boards, and storage boxes. If you want to physically damage the object, make it look as if it has been physically damaged, beat it with a hammer, scratch it with nails. You can make a mallet out of plywood and self-tapping screws and tap it on the surface to imitate pest-eaten wood.

7. Liquid metals

Liquid metals and oxidizing agents can turn even an object that just came off the assembly line into a vintage object.

8. Moldings

Add a retro touch to your furniture and accessories with moldings by painting them the same color as your object and then gluing them to the surface.

If a gap develops between the molding and the surface, use filler, and when dry, paint the joint.

9. Changing the upholstery

By changing the upholstery of a sofa, chair or chair with retro-style textiles, you will give the furniture a more vintage look.

10. Vintage details

You can add vintage details to an item (or replace existing pieces with other pieces) and its look will instantly change. A pedestal from a Singer sewing machine will turn even the most modern table into a retro piece. Antique fittings can easily transform your furniture, boxes or storage boxes.

11. Paste for volumetric decor

In the assortment of construction stores and in stores with goods for creativity you will find a special paste for creating volumetric decor.

With its help, you can use a stencil and a spatula to create a three-dimensional drawing on the surface of an object, giving it an antique feel.

12. Uneven staining

Is there an artist in you? Give him free rein: deliberately uneven staining is another great way to age your furniture. At once it seems as if the object has been painted and repainted more than once, and its history is counted in decades.

LIFT: For a more pronounced effect, this technique can be combined with others. For example, apply a contrasting undertones or imitate dents and scratches.

13. Tinting with Tea

Textiles and paper can be aged by tinting with strong tea or coffee.

14. Tinting with diluted wood paint

If you stain natural wood and boards with well-diluted (to the consistency of a stain) paint, you are guaranteed a vintage effect.

Tip: You can pre-burn the wood (of course, if it is not painted and varnished) portable torch and go through the metal brush along the fibers, so the effect will be much more pronounced.

15. Decoupage

A simple, proven by many craftswomen way to give an object a vintage spirit is decoupage. By the way, it is not necessary to hunt for special tissues, you can print the image on a laser printer and briefly soak it in warm water before applying it to the surface.