Furniture Painting

Furniture Painting For Beginners

Furniture painting for beginners is an exciting and rewarding craft that can help you transform your furniture and give it a unique and personalized look. With the right supplies and a few simple techniques, you can easily learn how to paint furniture like a professional. The process involves cleaning the piece of furniture, filling in any damage, and then applying primer, paint, and sealer. The type of paint and finish you choose will depend on the type of furniture, the look you want to achieve, and the amount of time and effort you want to put into the project. With a little practice and patience, you can create beautiful pieces that are perfect for your home.

What paint to paint furniture?

  1. Professionals recommend choosing coatings that are suitable specifically for furniture. If you take a composition designed, for example, for the ceiling or walls, and paint a chair with it, the coating may not work the way you would like it to, and in addition will be short-lived. As a last resort, you can take a universal paint, but it is better to clarify in advance on the manufacturer’s website or with the salesperson in the store whether it will be suitable for your project.
  2. A safe and modern choice is water-based coatings. They dry quickly and do not emit harmful substances, which is important when we are dealing with items used in residential areas.
  3. Water-based acrylic paint is one of the most common choices. However, this coating is not recommended for lacquered surfaces, LDPE products or items already painted with some other types of paint (such as glue-based).
  4. If you need to decide what paint to paint chipboard furniture or lacquered furniture, it is better to take eco-paint options: chalk, mineral, milk paint. They are safe and, if you follow the recommendations for use, adhere well to various surfaces, up to and including plastic, metal and glass.
  5. Oil paint is used less and less nowadays. They take a long time to dry and release strong smelling and not very useful compounds. When working at home, it can be hard to put it on straight. But if you’re not afraid of these peculiarities, but you need a strong and durable coating, this option is fine.
  6. Latex paint is a pretty popular option right now. It is good with a variety of textures and colors. But, although it dries quite quickly, the surface after drying does not become so hard to call this type of coating durable and wear-resistant. Simply put, for a bench on which you daily stand with your feet, it is better not to take this option, but for a decorative shelf it is quite suitable.
  7. Finally, let’s talk about the finish. This can be varnish or wax. Varnish gives a stronger, more wear-resistant coating, so it is better suited for items that you use often and intensively. That said, you can choose a varnish with different textures, such as matte or glossy. Wax looks and behaves more softly, and it also doesn’t tolerate high temperatures. It is not suitable, for example, for the seat of a chair or a tabletop, but it is quite possible to use it for a dresser or shelf.

How to Paint Furniture: Sequence of Steps

1. Needed for painting


  • paint of one or more colors (in the store, focus not only on the color, but also on the type of paint – take into account the tips above, plus if possible, consult with a salesman, explaining to him the essence of your idea and plans for its implementation);
  • degreaser (alcohol or mineral spirits);
  • putty and spatula, if necessary;
  • primer;
  • if you need a craquelure effect – an appropriate coating;
  • finishing coat (varnish or wax);
  • rollers, brushes, sponge, paint tray;
  • sandpaper of medium grit and fine grit;
  • masking tape, if you need to protect any parts;
  • gloves and clothes that you can’t be bothered to stain with paint;
  • a protective mask;
  • newspapers or polyethylene to cover the floor;
  • several lint-free cloth rags (microfiber rags work well).

2. Preparing the furniture

First, examine the piece of furniture selected for painting. You will need to keep it clean by wiping it with a cloth soaked in a detergent solution. Then wipe the object with a clean, damp cloth and dry it thoroughly.

Then fill in the cracks and chips with a special filler. Wait until it dries and sand the surface with an emery cloth, first coarser, then finer grit.

If you decide how to paint furniture without removing the varnish, it is worth sanding the entire surface: this way the coating will lay better and will hold longer.

Then dedust the surface: to remove sanded off particles from the previous coating, go over it properly with a microfiber cloth.

Then degrease. What can be used to degrease a furniture surface before painting? Alcohol or mineral spirits will work. Apply the liquid to a rag and wipe the surface, then wait until it dries. Remember to wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated area.

3. Priming

The next step is priming. Only go to this step after the preparatory step described above! Coat the surface with primer, wait until it is completely dry and then sand it with a fine sandpaper. After a good dedusting, that is, remove the sanded particles of coating with a microfiber cloth. For best results, apply a second coat of primer, dry, sand and dust again.

4. Paint

Finally, let’s move on to painting. You can use a brush, paint roller, spray paint. Try to put the paint evenly, without drips. It is better to put a thinner layer and then add more than the other way around. Depending on how you want to get the result, you may need to put 1-3 layers of paint. Be sure to dry each coat well. After each coat has dried, you can sand the surface with a fine sandpaper and dust it: this gives a more even, homogeneous finish.

5. Finish Coating

Apply the topcoat after the paint has dried. You can use a matte or high gloss lacquer of your choice. The lacquer is usually applied with a brush or a soft cloth or foam pad. You can also use varnish in a spray. Usually 1-2 coats of varnish is enough. Allow the coating to dry well between coats.

If you are using wax, rub it vigorously with a soft cloth into the surface. Then go over the surface with a clean cloth to remove any excess.

Ideally, after applying the finish coat, the object should not be used for 2-3 days to be less likely to damage the coating.

Furniture Painting

Painting furniture with your own hands: 5 main rules for a great result

1. Do not skip the sanding stage

There are quite a few master classes and guides, assuring that this step is optional, there are paints, labels which say that when working with them to sand the surface is not necessary, but the practice-professionals unanimously assert: for good results – necessarily sand! If you are repainting a large object or furniture that needs to remove old varnish or paint, you may need a sander. But, if you are patient and have enough gloves and a protective mask (so as not to breathe the dust), you can also sand the wood properly with an ordinary sandpaper, by hand. For objects of complex and rounded shape this method is even more preferable. First, remove the old coating and smooth out the irregularities with a coarse sandpaper (take care not to overdo it by removing too much, especially for chipboard furniture). Then – go over the entire surface with a fine sandpaper.

2. Dust properly

If the dust from the sandpaper stays on the wood, the paint will lay unevenly, and later may well start to come off in pieces. An aged or craquelure effect is better to achieve with special techniques. When you want a good, even finish, after sanding, wipe the surface properly with a soft, lint-free cloth (lint can “litter” the finish).

3. Primer 

Be sure to prime the surface before you paint. Primer not only helps the paint adhere better to the surface, making the finish stronger and more durable. It impregnates the wood, protecting it from destructive external influences (moisture, sun) and fills in small cracks and irregularities. Prim wood by following the instructions on the package of your chosen product. General advice: Try to prime even the hard-to-reach areas with primer (use a brush for this) and let the primer dry well.

4. Better a few thin coats than one thick coat.

To get a good-looking and long-lasting finish, don’t try to cover the entire surface with a thick coat of paint at one time. It’s not likely to be perfectly flat, and you’re more likely to get runners that will negate any effort to prepare the surface beforehand. It is better to put a thin layer of paint, let it dry properly, then estimate the result. At this stage, by the way, it is easy to get rid of minor flaws – those same runs or flecks stuck to the paint (sand these places on the dried paint with sandpaper). If, in your opinion, the coverage is not dense enough, add a second coat. After it dries, check the result again, and so on. However, too many thin layers of paint may also not look very nice – usually three is enough.

5. Use a finishing coat

When choosing a paint, ask for advice about the type of finish that will go best with it (this is also worth doing when buying a primer, by the way). When the painted object is perfectly dry, give it a protective finish coat, and you’ll enjoy your work much longer.

Wax Polish

The Professional Way To Wax Polish Antique And Vintage Furniture

Polishing antique and vintage furniture can be a rewarding experience, especially when done correctly. Wax polishing is one of the best ways to bring out the beauty of your old furniture and make it look as good as new. Wax polish is an effective way of protecting the furniture from scratches and wear, while also giving it a glossy and beautiful finish. It is important to wax polish antique and vintage furniture the right way, as improper methods can lead to damage and discoloration. This article will provide you with a step-by-step guide on the professional way to wax polish antique and vintage furniture. With the right technique and a little bit of patience, you can make your old furniture look like new again.

Polishing With Beeswax

This natural remedy does not change the color of the wood, consists of turpentine and beeswax, two natural oily substances, after polishing which the surface of the wood looks smooth and shiny. For the preparation you will need 1/4 cup of beeswax, which should be melted by stirring with a wooden spoon. Once the wax has dissolved, you need to take it off the fire and slowly add to a container 1/4 cup turpentine, after cooling pour into a sealed container, where it is recommended to store the product. If desired, you can add essential oils to the polishing paste, to neutralize the strong smell of turpentine. Apply a small amount of the product to a rag and rub it into the furniture or floor.

How Do I Clean Off The Old Wax Polish On My Furniture?

You can remove furniture old wax polish with solvents known to everyone, such as turpentine, denatured alcohol solution or ammonia. To remove the old wax polish, carefully rub one of these remedies into the surface of the furniture using thin metal wool. By the way, this method of removing varnish is the easiest and most popular among people.

You can also remove old wax polish from furniture with the help of ordinary acetone. Soak a prepared rag in this substance, spread it on the lacquered surface and cover it with polyethylene, so that the acetone does not evaporate. After half an hour, remove the softened varnish with a spatula. The effectiveness of this method of removing old wax polish depends entirely on the quality of the varnish.

On the shelves of specialized stores you can find special solvents and rinsers, designed to remove old wax polish from various surfaces. Use them properly, following the supplied instructions, because if the remover penetrates deep enough into the micropores of the wood, the subsequent application of varnish on this surface will be virtually impossible. Use a small brush to apply the flush to grooves, grooves, hollows, and other hard-to-reach areas of furniture.

A great helper for removing old wax polish from furniture is a sander. With it, you can get rid of old varnish in minutes. First, use a coarse sanding pad, and then a fine sanding pad. Compact sanders are available that are connected to a vacuum cleaner. When they are used, the dust produced by sanding does not fly in different directions.

Some people prefer to remove old wax polish from furniture with the help of special construction hair dryers. This method is not entirely successful, because removing lacquer with such a hair dryer, for example, from solid veneer, can lead to peeling of the veneer.

Wax Polish

Is It OK To Use Aerosol Spray Polishes On My Antique Furniture?

No, using polishes to treat antique furniture is not allowed under any circumstances. If you think about it yourself, you will realize that it is quite logical. In the “young age” of antiques no chemicals for the protection of tables, chairs, etc. have not yet been heard of. Then they used ordinary wet rags, and they made sure that the latter were soft. You should do the same. In this case, the antique furniture will serve you for as long as possible.

7 Reasons Not To Use Spray Polish On Your Furniture

When it comes to polishing furniture, many people turn to spray polish as an easy and convenient option. However, there are several reasons why you should avoid using spray polish on your furniture.

1. It’s difficult to control.

When you spray polish onto furniture, it’s difficult to control where the polish goes. This can lead to an uneven finish and overspray on surrounding surfaces.

2. It can build up.

Because spray polish is so difficult to control, it can easily build up on surfaces. Over time, this build-up can make furniture look dull and dirty.

3. It’s messy.

Spray polish is notoriously messy. It’s easy to accidentally get polish on your clothing or carpet. And, if you’re not careful, you can end up with a sticky mess.

4. It’s wasteful.

Because spray polish is so difficult to control, a lot of it ends up going to waste. Every time you use spray polish, you’re essentially throwing money away.

5. It’s harmful to the environment.

Most spray polishes contain harmful chemicals that can damage the environment. When these chemicals are released into the air, they can cause respiratory problems and other health issues.

6. It’s flammable.

Many spray polishes contain flammable chemicals. If these polishes are used near an open flame, they can easily catch fire.

7. It’s bad for your furniture.

Spray polish can actually damage your furniture. The chemicals in spray polish can interact with the finish on your furniture, causing it to become dull and discolored.

So, next time you’re tempted to reach for the spray polish, think twice. There are much better and safer ways to polish your furniture.

Why You Shouldn’t Use Oil-based Polishes On Your Wood Furniture

Using low-quality oil

It is worth considering that even quite high-quality universal oil can be less effective (most likely it will be) than specialized formulations. It is worth choosing products designed to solve a specific problem.

The oil is not stirred before use

Why do you need to stir the oil? To lift the pigments that have settled to the bottom. If this is not done, the color of the oil will be darker somewhere and lighter somewhere on different areas of the wood. This is especially risky when using dye oil.

Using oil from different batches without mixing

The composition of oil in different batches may vary slightly, including the concentration of dye pigments. If oil from different batches is not mixed, the surface will be painted unevenly.

Excessive application of oil

A small excess of oil during application not only does not hurt, but is even recommended. But sometimes too much oil is applied: so it takes a long time to dry, especially at the seams.

More often than not, this mistake is due to the fact that:

  • working with oil as with paints: the product is not “stretched” on the surface;
  • apply the composition with low-quality brushes or foam sponges;
  • use more oil to get a saturated tone;
  • do not polish when applying oil on hard wood (beech, maple, larch) or when using oil with a high dry residue.

Why Are Homemade Furniture Polishes So Bad?

Furniture polish is designed to protect wood surfaces and keep them looking shiny and new. However, many store-bought polishes contain harsh chemicals that can damage your furniture over time.

Homemade furniture polishes are often made with natural ingredients like olive oil or beeswax. While these may be better for your furniture, they can still damage it if not used correctly.

Olive oil, for example, can leave behind a greasy residue that attracts dirt and dust. Beeswax can make your furniture look cloudy and can be difficult to remove.

When using any type of polish on your furniture, it’s important to test it in an inconspicuous area first. This will help you determine if the polish is compatible with your furniture’s finish.

It’s also important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. This will help you avoid damaging your furniture and voiding any warranties.

If you’re looking for a natural furniture polish, there are a few recipes you can try. Just be sure to test them in a small area first and to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use.


How to combine vintage and modern furniture in the interior

Interiors tell stories, keep memories, unite eras and can look balanced, even if you add the most unexpected ingredients to the “recipe”.

Vintage things, remembering our grandmothers’ childhood or those found in the treasuries of antique stores and flea markets, can harmoniously coexist with the hottest trends, collections of modern designers and practical mass-market. Here’s how to make them work together.


One way to twin retro with modern is to make vintage items the main protagonists of the interior, and all the rest of the furniture and decorations pick up under them. Nowadays it is an easy task. To assemble an interior in the style of a certain era, it is not necessary to hunt for rare items at auctions, or to arrange excavations in attics.

Contemporary designers are actively nostalgic for bygone eras, regularly reviving them in their collections and projects: glamorous art deco from the roaring ’20s, practical mid-senchuried modern on thin lacquered legs, relaxed hippie era and bold Memphis from the ’80s are all relevant and relatively easy to access now.

Characteristic styles from bygone decades are constantly traveling through time and appearing on the trend list. This year the most fashionable trend is the ’70s: terrazzo texture, rounded furniture, corduroy upholstery, macramé and other signs of the hippie decade are massively present in designer collections. Authentic vintage of the period will feel good in such company.

Striving for one hundred percent conformity to a particular era is not necessary, after all, we are not talking about an art production in a movie, but about a residential interior. 


A mix of styles and eras in one interior has every right to look contrasting. And the sharper and more noticeable the contrast, the better. The most relevant technique at the moment: take a simple, solid interior base and expressive accents. By solid base we mean a neutral finish and modern interior minimalism, and by expressive accents – accentuated non-residential furniture and accessories. 

If you want to beat the vintage sofa, add contrasts in the form of cushions with modern prints. Put modern tableware in a vintage sideboard, or misuse it at all – for example, to store hats. Surround an antique homestead wooden table with modern chairs – all to make it clear that you’re only playing with retro.

As always, the key is the right proportions. The abundance of vintage can squeeze the air out of the space, turning it into an antique shop. Use retro elements as condiments.

Making furniture shapes from different eras come together is a challenge; it’s easier with accessories. The more minimalist the interior, the more interesting a vintage object will look in it. In an abode of glass and concrete perfectly fit “beaten by time” wooden stool. On the shelves of minimalist kitchens with smooth fronts without handles vintage utensils will take root. Faded carpet will lie beautifully on the stone floor or porcelain tiles, it is desirable that the furniture and other accessories in the room looked emphasized modern, then the contrast will look like a deliberate decision, and the carpet will not seem like a random relic of bygone times. 

The principle is simple: the cozy vintage contrasts with the modern technological. In such a contrast, retro things seem even more “alive”.

Especially brave ones can hang a nostalgic carpet on the wall. But it is better not to pull this trick in a classic interior among the massive wooden furniture – it may look too Soviet. 



Sometimes we want to nestle a vintage piece in the interior not only because of its aesthetic or practical qualities, but simply because it is memorable. Some of these items can no longer be used for their intended purpose, but you can always give them a new life. 

Your grandfather’s vintage suitcases can become a bedside table.A three-liter jar, in which grandma rolled cucumbers, can be used as a colorful vase. Do not be afraid to fit such a seemingly unsightly accessory into a modern interior, the main thing is to pick him the right neighbors.

Old boards that have already lived the life of a rustic fence or the wall of a private house can be used as screens for radiators, decorative panels or bed headboard cladding. Window trim will turn into a frame, Dad’s bicycle into a creative coat rack. And such things as a samovar, kerosene lamp, typewriter or gramophone and did not need to look for alternative uses, they can be seen purely as decorative objects. 

Vintage and modern things can look like forced neighbors, to turn their cohabitation into a thoughtful interior, you need a concept.


Fashionable vintage: 15 simple ways to age furniture, textiles and accessories

Retro motifs in the interior – at the peak of popularity. You, too, can bring them into your surroundings, and it’s not too difficult to do it with your own hands.

1. Painting with a worn-out effect

The most common way to paint your furniture to create a vintage effect is to first apply a layer of contrasting paint, and after it dries, rub it with a candle (the most common one) on the ledges, corners and other places where you want to see scuffs and the effect of the peeling from time. Then cover the item in the base color, allow to dry and go over the areas rubbed with a candle with a spatula or fine sandpaper. The top layer of paint is easy to remove, exposing the contrasting “substrate.

A tip: if your furniture is dark and you decided to repaint it in a light color (or vice versa: the furniture is light and the new planned look is dark), you can omit applying a contrasting “undercoat”.

2. Wax tinting.

To give furniture and accessories an aged look, you can also use waxes. The effect is especially noticeable if the surface has ledges and recesses, or if it is rather textured in itself. Depending on the desired effect, you may want to see a more pronounced effect, but choose a more contrasting one. 

For the tinting process, you can combine several waxes for a more interesting result.

3. Stencils

Using a stencil (ready-made or homemade), you can apply a vintage inscription or a distinctive pattern to furniture or an accessory to give the item a retro look.


4. Dry Brush Method

Another method for paint lovers is dry-brush painting. Pick a color that contrasts with the base color – and with an almost dry brush, go over the projections and edges with light tapping motions, simulating scuffs and scratches. 

5. Adding Filler Paint

By adding filler to the paint (often quartz is used), you can create a peeling effect in places. Apply the filler paint and after it has dried, gently scrape away the excess with a spatula. However, if you like textured protrusions on the surface of the object, you can not knock them down, it also looks original.

6. Physical Damage

The method is especially good for antiquing wooden furniture, boards, and storage boxes. If you want to physically damage the object, make it look as if it has been physically damaged, beat it with a hammer, scratch it with nails. You can make a mallet out of plywood and self-tapping screws and tap it on the surface to imitate pest-eaten wood.

7. Liquid metals

Liquid metals and oxidizing agents can turn even an object that just came off the assembly line into a vintage object.

8. Moldings

Add a retro touch to your furniture and accessories with moldings by painting them the same color as your object and then gluing them to the surface.

If a gap develops between the molding and the surface, use filler, and when dry, paint the joint.

9. Changing the upholstery

By changing the upholstery of a sofa, chair or chair with retro-style textiles, you will give the furniture a more vintage look.

10. Vintage details

You can add vintage details to an item (or replace existing pieces with other pieces) and its look will instantly change. A pedestal from a Singer sewing machine will turn even the most modern table into a retro piece. Antique fittings can easily transform your furniture, boxes or storage boxes.

11. Paste for volumetric decor

In the assortment of construction stores and in stores with goods for creativity you will find a special paste for creating volumetric decor.

With its help, you can use a stencil and a spatula to create a three-dimensional drawing on the surface of an object, giving it an antique feel.

12. Uneven staining

Is there an artist in you? Give him free rein: deliberately uneven staining is another great way to age your furniture. At once it seems as if the object has been painted and repainted more than once, and its history is counted in decades.

LIFT: For a more pronounced effect, this technique can be combined with others. For example, apply a contrasting undertones or imitate dents and scratches.

13. Tinting with Tea

Textiles and paper can be aged by tinting with strong tea or coffee.

14. Tinting with diluted wood paint

If you stain natural wood and boards with well-diluted (to the consistency of a stain) paint, you are guaranteed a vintage effect.

Tip: You can pre-burn the wood (of course, if it is not painted and varnished) portable torch and go through the metal brush along the fibers, so the effect will be much more pronounced.

15. Decoupage

A simple, proven by many craftswomen way to give an object a vintage spirit is decoupage. By the way, it is not necessary to hunt for special tissues, you can print the image on a laser printer and briefly soak it in warm water before applying it to the surface.


What is retro furniture style

Retro style – unique in its essence in the interior. Why? Because it is never outdated and always fascinates with the combination of grace and contrast! Complicated in simplicity – this is about retro.

But where is the boundary that separates the retro from the vintage? Which style can really be considered retro? What good is a retro style? And why the retro style renovation – is not only beautiful but also beneficial?

Let’s find out?

What is retro and what can this style be?

Retro is quite a broad concept, in which it is very easy to get confused. Music, clothing and interiors in this style can be interpreted in different ways. Some people say that retro is something that is older than 30-50 years. Others say that retro is the 1930s and 1950s. And others attribute the concept of “retro” to the second half of the nineteenth and first half of the twentieth century. Where is the truth?

We will not argue with the opinions, and consider the broadest understanding of style – it originated in the 1850s. Then it was not quite retro, but retro, strongly seasoned Rococo: pleats, ruffles, curved candlesticks and gilding. But the very form of objects is already getting more strict and simple forms. The interior is dominated by light neutral or dark deep shades in combination with gilding. Wall decorations are characteristic: paintings in wooden frames, wallpaper and trellises with gilding.

To get a good idea of such an interior, visit the museum with the interior of a pre-revolutionary noble family. There is a very good transition from complex Rococo forms to simpler and clearer, but at the same time there are bright elements of chic French style.

If we talk about timing, retro style for a while frozen, stopped in development and up to the 1950s almost unchanged. The reason for this is the war, which made people forget about aesthetics. But after its end people who were tired of asceticism, deprivation and lack of bright colors made a real revolution in style. Here begins the heyday of retro, revealing its essence and character.

If you’ve seen the movie “Stilyagi”, then you can imagine how retro was realized in ordinary living spaces. And if we talk about elaborate repair in the style of retro – it is already vinyl records, Andy Warhol and Marilyn Monroe. Sleek lines, elements of gloss, strict and thoughtful forms – it’s all retro. Simplicity is combined with laconic glamour, and retro acquires its characteristic look, still beloved by many for its refinement, thoughtfulness and absence of unnecessary details. What is called “firm”!


Important elements: Retro walls, prints and decorations

The modern retro style is made today materials and furniture, stylized as the products of that time. Some of the requirements of this style are high quality materials, good finishes, neat workmanship. It is for this reason that retro can be confused with vintage. However, vintage is a style that implies not stylized, but original elements of the time. In other words, if you can buy furniture, wallpaper or other items in the retro style in a regular store, then the vintage items in their majority will be sold in an antique store.

Bright (sometimes to the point of acidity) colors in combination with precise, absolutely thought-out lines of furniture or drawings. No picture frames, abstract color or black and white prints, lacquered surfaces and gloss. These can be attributed to the main features of retro, which is still popular today. For a standard apartment in a high-rise building, this is one of the universal style choices. If you love vintage, you know that styles that are from earlier periods require breadth and scope. And that’s what we all tend to be limited in.

You might say that retro is a kind of elaborate chic. Beauty is where you can afford it, and no more. For example, the walls can be painted with monochrome paint or wallpapered with a small or medium repetitive pattern. A lot of finishing elements is not about retro. Here it’s more of a play with color and lines. Contrasts in color are combined with soft roundness of lines, the atmosphere of a soldier’s barracks meets joyful colored prints.

Interesting accents in the retro style are curtains and paintings. The former are not without rococo influence. And this means that curtains can be of heavy, satin or translucent fabric, but necessarily with soft drapery, laid with large or medium ruffles. The very essence of the style here is the thoughtfulness of each fold. Hence the impression of chic.

As for wall decorations – pictures without frames, there are often portraits with interesting and bright color combinations, characteristic font: clear, with smoothed lines. The style of paintings – printed on a color printer, and no realism.

Chandeliers in the retro style are also laconic and simple forms. They can be light or colored (again, contrast and alternation of colors) and even minimalist in their design.

The good news is that retro is not too demanding on wall finishes. It’s all about the elements with which they will be decorated. Gramophone, records from it, paintings, carpets with short pile and abstract neat lines and even waffle towels instead of the analog from microfiber and will make the right impression of the room.

Retro style furniture

Requirements for furniture – the same alignment and severity of forms. But, it must be said, it can also manifest itself in unusual forms: elongated chair backs, round seats and asymmetry. But the most important thing is the impression of completeness.

Another important feature is the quality of the furniture. Retro is often wood, the lack of luster of fittings, stability and durability. Therefore, if you prefer this style in the interior, you make quite a profitable investment. High-quality materials last for decades, and the retro style (which is already actually antique) does not lose relevance over time.

A good substitute for expensive wood are three-layer chipboard and deep milled MDF. With quality workmanship, these materials create things comparable to durable wood.

Metal is also present in the frame of furniture: chairs, beds, tables. Closets are more chests of drawers and sideboards on legs rather than full-wall closets. Good fittings are the key to the “health” of furniture. And for retro it is especially important, because moving metal parts of poor quality quickly lose their look and performance. And if you do not know which style to choose, if you doubt your information savvy, if you want practical advice and high-quality work, contact a consultant from “Angstrem”. Any questions about the interior, furniture and the quality of materials, as well as ordering work from one of the largest holdings with a good reputation. A good choice, isn’t it?

living room

How to arrange living room furniture with fireplace and TV

In every room there are meaningful centers of composition. In the kitchen it is a set or a dining group, in the bedroom – a bed, and in the study – a desk. In the living room with a fireplace and a television, there are two such centers. Therefore, it is easy to get confused when decorating the interior. Let’s figure out how to place furniture in such cases. If you want to find the most trendy design and decor ideas, you will find them on this site

Types of fireplaces

Planning the design of the living room with a fireplace and a TV, it is worth deciding which model is right for you. The layout of the entire room depends on this. All models differ in two main parameters: the method of placement and the fuel you need to work. Let’s consider each group.

According to the method of placement

  • Built-in. This is a classic that requires a chimney. Just to make it in the apartment will not work, the designs are designed at the stage of construction of the house. In city houses and new buildings almost never provide for a chimney, so this option is suitable for a cottage or a private country house. But in the apartment you can install an electric or bio-fireplace in this way, and complement the wall with a construction made of plasterboard.
  • Wall-mounted. Another classic option, this is the model of the American and English type with a U-shaped portal. 
  • Island. Can be placed in any part of the room, and even in the center. It can be suspended and floor-mounted.
  • Corner, as the name suggests, is located in the corner. It can be both built-in and wall-mounted, and even island.

According to the type of fuel

Another important parameter, on which depends not only the functioning of the device, but also its design.

  • Biofire is one of the novelties, works on alcohol fuel. It requires neither a chimney, nor a hood, nor communications. And you can place it almost everywhere: in the photo interiors of the living room TV over such a fireplace looks very effective.
  • Wood-burning – a classic with a chimney and a place for the logs. This is not an option for the apartment, you can make a real stove of this type only in a country house.
  • Electric. Safe, convenient and environmentally friendly. In fact, this is a heater, which imitates the flame. And today you can find models with remote control and the sound of crackling wood.
  • Gas. Another model that is designed for the private home. It runs on natural gas, the fuel supply can be regulated. You will need approval from the gas service for the arrangement.

Options for the placement of the TV screen and stove

Fireplace under the TV in the living room

Most design projects offer exactly this arrangement of the two elements. It is especially relevant for built-in and wall-mounted stoves. For the composition to be balanced, consider the following points.

The most harmonious in terms of design is when the diagonal of the TV and the portal of the stove are approximately equal. In this case, no element will visually clash and weight down the picture.

  • Pay attention to the design photos: the fireplace under the TV in the living room is the center of the composition, and the sides are symmetrical. In some designs, two windows create symmetry. But if the wall is blank, you can create it with the same cabinets, pictures or other furniture.
  • Another technique to create symmetry in such projects: a sofa and armchairs that stand on either side of it. Thus, even if the wall is not symmetrical, they balance it out.
  • A long biofireplace, located under the TV, also looks very organic. And it can occupy almost the entire wall. There are no special rules for decoration, so you can not only decorate the wall, but also add dynamics to it. This is a great technique for interiors in a modern style.

TV on the side

When there is no possibility to place the TV above the portal, you can hang or put it next to it. But this is a solution for the brave, because you have to determine how you will balance the composition.

If you have a TV hanging on one side, you can put a cabinet, table or hang a painting about the same size as the plasma on the other.

Placement on different walls

It is good if the fireplace and TV in the interior of the living room are on adjacent walls. In the center you can put a coffee table, and next to it – a sofa and chairs. You will get a circular composition with a central unifying element.

The TV and the stove are rarely placed on parallel walls. In small rooms it is uncomfortable: the light from the fire can interfere with watching TV. And in large rooms it is not very practical. Both elements require the equipment of places to rest, so that in the end you get a room with two zones and very limited functionality.

living room

The subtleties of placing a corner stove model

If the stove is corner, there are not many layout options. The most thoughtful solution is a TV on the adjacent wall. If there is a window, try to hang the panel against the sunlight. Otherwise, the glare will interfere with watching the programs in the daytime.

Modern models of biofires, which are built into the corner of the partition also look interesting. Such a design can also be used to divide a large space into zones. And not only in the house, but also in a city apartment.

Location of the island stove

In addition to the classic location by the wall and in the partition, with the help of an island stove you can zone the space. This is exactly what the owner of the apartment in the photo below did. The dining room and living room are divided not only with the help of color, but also with a small cute island stove.


How to remove mold from furniture fabric

Mold on fabrics is a natural occurrence, but it can be frustrating and difficult to get rid of without damaging the appearance of your furniture – but how do you safely remove it from your favorite fabric items?

Bleach is a common ingredient used in many store-bought mold remedies, but its powerful stain and mold removal properties mean it should be avoided when it comes to fabrics, writes The chlorine in bleach will remove colored pigment from household materials, so it’s best to avoid commercial mold removers when you find mold on upholstered furniture – but what are the best alternatives?

Mold and mildew appear when there is moisture and heat, which is then absorbed by upholstered furniture such as curtains, sofas and mattresses, presenting as dark green stains of mildew-smelling bacteria.

Everything from cooking and showering to drying clothes and even breathing can contribute to the moisture levels in our homes, so learning to limit mold growth around your property is essential to learning to live with this common household nuisance.

What’s the difference between mold and mildew?

Mold grows under the surface of materials, penetrating the fabric that looks moldy.

Mold is a visible element that grows on the surface and is much easier to remove.

Treating mold and mildew is a joint effort, as you need to target deep penetrating mold to prevent visible mold from returning.


How to scrub mold from fabric

While bleach is considered a surefire way to remove mold spores, there is widespread controversy over its durability in cleaning mold from fabrics, with many experts claiming that it merely brightens surface spores rather than targeting the growth of deep-rooted bacteria.

While mold and mildew can be cleaned fairly easily, preventing the growth of these nasty bacteria on your furniture begins with prevention through simple measures such as airing and dehumidifying your home.

The first step in removing mold from upholstered furniture is to vacuum up loose particles before removing deep-rooted debris with a liquid cleaning solution.

People with allergies and asthma are especially susceptible to irritation caused by mold spores, and removing them can be dangerous if you suffer from them yourself.

Wear a mask and gloves and ventilate your property when removing mold to limit exposure to spores in a confined space, and throw away any cleaning products used when working on furniture.

White Vinegar

You can get this homemade solution right in your kitchen cabinet. It is a powerful mold and mildew remover that is gentle on your fabrics, especially leather and fabrics.

Pure white vinegar is said to kill 82 percent of mold, so this natural solution provides a reliable recipe against mold.

It’s best to use a sprayer and spray it directly on the affected area.

White distilled vinegar can be poured undiluted into a spray bottle to get rid of mold on furniture.

Once you have treated the affected area, leave it for about half an hour, then rinse with clean water and leave it to dry.

Isopropyl alcohol

Fill an empty spray bottle with equal parts warm water and high-proof isopropyl alcohol for a quick solution to mold and mildew.

Some rubbing alcohols contain dyes that can leave a film-like layer on fabrics and stain them even more, so always choose isopropyl alcohol, which is less likely to leave stains on your fabric.


Essential oil-based cleaners, such as grapefruit seed or tea tree oil, may seem tempting as a fresher-scented home remedy for mold. But keep in mind that oil stains fabric, so it’s best to avoid using oil blends or bleach.

Direct sunlight is great for mold-treated furniture because it dries the surface, lightly bleaching any dark spots left by mold spores.

Always test the solution on an inconspicuous area of fabric to make sure it does not discolor the surface.

Curtains are especially susceptible to mold and mildew growth because they are close to windows, which are prone to condensation and excess moisture.

You can easily minimize condensation by following these simple steps:

Insulate ceilings, floors and walls

Improve the insulating properties of your windows by closing curtains/blinds every day as the sun goes down.

Place curtains or blinds as close to the wall as possible to trap air at the window.

Draw the curtains to the floor to keep air from escaping from underneath them.

Switch to double-glazing in older homes and check any existing double-glazing for faults that may need repair.


How to get cigarette smell out of furniture

In the apartments of persistent smokers, who do not want to go out with a cigarette on the balcony or outside, the smell of tobacco is usually felt from the very threshold. It is so strongly penetrated into the surface of furniture and walls that it seems impossible to get it out. Meanwhile, there are several ways to help if not completely eliminate, then at least minimize the unpleasant smell in the room of the smoker. And most of them can be attributed to a fairly simple and budgetary.

We resort to fragrance remedies

These are quite common today air fresheners, available in different forms.

  • Special scent mixtures should be spread in the room, making sure to place them on furniture, including upholstered furniture. They can be bought or prepared independently, using, for example, coffee beans, mandarin or orange peel, aromatic oils, etc. and selecting components based on personal preferences.
  • Of the aerosols, it is desirable to choose those that have an automatic atomization system. It is enough to set the atomization mode and the room will always smell nice.
  • Other options are scented candles and lamps, but they must be lit when someone is present in the room.

The disadvantage of scented products is that they only temporarily mask the smell, but do not eliminate it completely.

Preparing a shampoo for furniture

This method is relevant if the room is upholstered furniture. To treat it is very simple. Here are step by step instructions:

  1. In warm water, dilute some ordinary shampoo or carpet cleaner (powder, gel – it does not matter).
  2. Whip the solution into a foam.
  3. Dip a sponge into the resulting foam, and work it into the covering of upholstered furniture.
  4. Wait for the upholstery to dry, then vacuum the furniture.
  5. For greater efficiency, you can add a little salt to the resulting shampoo.

Using Vinegar

Another tool for treating tobacco-soaked upholstery on furniture is apple cider vinegar.

It is enough to prepare a solution of 0.5 cup of apple cider vinegar, one cup of water and any foaming carpet cleaner to get rid of the problem with the unpleasant smell. The solution can also treat upholstered furniture, closet shelves, and a table…

If you do not risk wiping the furniture with a wet rag, simply place small bowls of vinegar next to it and cover them with towels, pre-moistened in the vinegar solution.

The only drawback is that the apartment will need to be well ventilated afterwards.

Using a damp towel

This method will appeal to those who are against the above methods. A damp terry towel is known to absorb tobacco smoke and odor well. Well, just spread the wet towels around the room. You may have to change them several times as they dry, which is quite a hassle. Then send the towels to the washing machine.

Lonizing the air

Quick, easy, convenient – that’s how you can describe this kind of method of getting rid of tobacco smoke. The only problem is that you need to buy an ionizer first. If there is a heavy smoker living in the apartment, this might be necessary. Although, to be fair, it should be noted: the household air ionizer perfectly copes with any unpleasant odors. This means that its purchase will pay off: by setting the necessary mode, you will always feel the freshness in the room.

What else can I do?

A few more simple but effective ways to get rid of tobacco smell in a room can be suggested:

  • timely (i.e. immediately after smoking) to ventilate the room and humidify the air – this will prevent the absorption of tobacco odor, from which you will need to get rid of later;
  • put old newspapers in the furniture – they will constantly absorb the smoke, partially solving the problem;
  • Get an ozone generator – it, like the ionizer, effectively eliminates odors, fights fungi and bacteria;
  • Use charcoal – this natural absorbent should be wrapped in a thin “breathing” cloth and placed indoors.

True, the methods with newspapers and charcoal cannot be called fast, because it will take more than one day to eliminate the stench with their help.

The best way to get rid of the problem is to eliminate its causes

And in general, in connection with the topic under discussion, the saying comes to mind: “Clean is not where you clean, but where you don’t litter. It’s the same with smoking – if you don’t want to have a strong smell of tobacco in the room, don’t smoke in it. Although situations, of course, are different: it’s one thing to be lazy, not wanting to go outside, and another to be forced to lie down. In any case, you can give a few more tips:

  • If you can not go outdoors or on the balcony, smoke next to the hood in the kitchen – so most of the smoke will be pulled from the room;
  • do not keep an ashtray full of cigarette butts and ash in the room, because it is an additional source of unpleasant odor.

By the way, our advice will be relevant not only for the owners of residential premises, but also for the owners of cafes, offices, etc. – Yes, among them there are some where smoking is not forbidden.


How to lacquer furniture

Wooden furniture has a fairly high cost, because the material is natural and environmentally friendly. However, having a lot of advantages, wood under the influence of external factors is subjected to deformation, cracking, changing color and desiccation. Therefore, you need to know in time how to coat furniture with varnish to prevent these processes.

The main varieties of materials

Unlike paint, transparent varnish does not hide the natural pattern of wood, while protecting it from moisture, UV rays, mechanical influences and the formation of roughness. But not all materials have the same properties and are suitable for use in the home. Therefore, it is necessary to be clearly oriented in their varieties to get the expected result.

Furniture varnishes, depending on their purpose, are divided into:

  • water-repellent;
  • weather-resistant;
  • heat-resistant;
  • heat-resistant;
  • shock-resistant.

By type, these materials are divided into:

  • semi-glossy;
  • glossy;
  • semimatte;
  • matte;
  • colored.

Depending on the composition, a distinction is made between:

  • acrylic;
  • oil;
  • alkyd;
  • polyurethane;
  • epoxy;
  • craquelure;
  • nitrolacquers.

Varnishes are available in the form of solutions and sprays, which are easy to handle hard-to-reach places.

Main characteristics of materials

Depending on the basis of the material differ and features of work with it.


For enclosed spaces, it is best to choose matte or glossy water-based acrylic varnishes, which do not contain organic solvents. They:

  • are odorless;
  • do not support combustion;
  • Do not cause allergies and are completely harmless to human health;
  • do not change the natural color of wood;
  • have high strength indicators;
  • dries quickly enough.

The only disadvantage of this coating is the sensitivity to moisture. Therefore, it is desirable to apply it in rooms such as bedrooms, living rooms, offices and children’s rooms. To apply acrylic lacquers, a special roller is used. This material is also available in spray cans in the form of a spray.


But water-based polyurethane varnishes combine the listed properties of acrylic analogues with moisture resistance, which makes it much easier to care for varnished furniture. This makes them the most popular protective materials and makes it possible to cover wooden products both inside and outside the premises. Polyurethane materials are ideal for children’s rooms, as kids can get the furniture wet or paint it.


To give furniture different shades, it is better to choose matte oil varnishes. Their production uses vegetable oils and resins, as well as organic solvents. After drying, these materials form a dense transparent film on the wood surface with a wide range of colors.


Alkyd varnish is considered to be a solid, waterproof colorless material. The coating is based on alkyd resins mixed with organic solvents. The disadvantages include the long drying time, which is 72 hours. However, the manufacturers have managed to improve the formula and added a special hardener to the lacquer, reducing this figure to 24 hours. The coating can be applied by roller or sprayer, which turns it into a spray, which also contributes to faster drying.

Antique Finish

Antique furniture, covered with modern materials, does not look very natural. Therefore, it is better to choose a matte krakelure varnish for it, which is able to create an imitation of an aged surface. This effect is achieved due to its ability to dehydrate the paint applied from above. The coloring technology includes two steps. First, krakelure varnish is applied, and after it dries only slightly, it is covered with paint.

When drying, small cracks form between them, giving the objects an antique look.


Nitro-lacquers could be called the ideal material to protect furniture, with excellent adhesive qualities, high coefficient of strength, moisture resistance and flexibility, if it were not for the presence of toxic solvents. And although these substances evaporate during drying and have no harmful effects on the human body, you should not use them to decorate furniture in the children’s room. Working with nitrovarnishes preferably in the open air or in a well-ventilated room, using reliable personal respiratory and eye protection.

To treat furniture in the children’s room should buy varnishes certified for resistance to saliva, as infants often chew on the wooden parts of cribs and playpens.

For children’s public facilities, experts recommend choosing a universal varnish that does not contain dyes and consists of natural materials such as ricin oil, rosin and various types of microspray.


Rules of operation

Deciding to restore the furniture yourself with the help of coating its surface with varnish, you should adhere to certain rules:

  1. Work should be carried out only in rooms with good ventilation.
  2. Do not allow the presence of open flame sources.
  3. Processing must be carried out with gloves, a respirator and goggles (the exception may be water-based varnishes).
  4. Carefully read and follow all instructions.
  5. If there is an old coating, it must be carefully removed, leaving not even small “islands”.
  6. If after cleaning there are cracks, bulges or cavities on the furniture, they must be putty, and then very well sanded.
  7. Before applying lacquer, you should cover the surface with one or two layers of primer.
  8. Lacquer should be applied in thin layers, giving each enough time to dry.

Spray varnishes

On a prepared wooden surface, you can apply varnish in the form of a spray. This will speed up the process of processing, but it is necessary to have certain skills. Therefore, first it is worth practicing on a sheet of plywood or a wooden board, especially if we are talking about krakelure varnish.

The rules for applying the spray include the following points:

  1. Shake the can well.
  2. Holding it 25-30 cm away from the surface to be treated, start applying with broad strokes in a horizontal direction.
  3. The presence of drips indicates that the can is too close.
  4. After spraying, let the coating dry for 48 hours (other times may be indicated on the packaging).
  5. Finish the first coat with fine sandpaper and remove the dust with a cloth.
  6. Apply a second coat and let it dry completely.
  7. If necessary, the process can be repeated a third time.

Do not take a negligent approach to the choice of varnishes for coating furniture, as this can not only lead to a reduction in its life, but also make it completely unusable due to deterioration of the appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of material for children’s furniture, as it has higher hygienic requirements.